Tharp & Young on ice cream
Why is ice cream both ultra-processed and hyperpalatable?
This does not mean it is unhealthy, however.

One thing we often debate is the healthfulness of ultra-processed foods. We should add this is the definition what may, or may not, be "hyper-palatable." Much of this is ignoring the meaningful, practical or workable definitions of ultra-processed or hyper-palatable foods. The implication is that such foods are unnatural, engineered, and inherently "unhealthy." Much of this is ignoring known and agreed scientific and technical considerations to the contrary.
Consider fluid milk (ignoring pasteurization/homogenization). One may think that at some time in milk’s lifetime, depending on conditions, it will "naturally" become cream, skim milk, yogurt, kefir, sour milk/buttermilk, sour cream or even cottage cheese. All is essentially defined, created and managed by Mother Nature herself via the known laws of chemistry, physics and microbiology.
However, if we look at a glass of milk forever, it will never become "ice cream." Ice cream must be purposefully made, and as such is not "natural." Furthermore, ice cream only exists when energy (i.e., effort) is applied, leveraging those very same laws of chemistry, physics and microbiology. Mother Nature would prefer to do something different with milk. Remember milk is Mother Nature’s preferred source of nutrition for young mammals.
To create ice cream, we need to overcome multiple technical barriers to Mother Nature’s rules. Therefore, either with or without a true definition, ice cream is in fact ultra-processed. And if we can agree that "it’s taste, stupid," with ice cream being cold, sweet, and tasty, then it is also hyper-palatable. At a minimum, with acceptable sensory appeal (body, texture, flavor delivery), who among us would disagree?
So, let’s agree: Ice cream is both ultra-processed and hyperpalatable. Now, does that mean ice cream is inherently unhealthy? This need not be the case. Let’s use ice cream and related foods as the poster children for ultra-processed and hyper-palatable foods.
Standard full fat ice cream is "high" in total fat, saturated fat, and cholesterol; and high in calories; devoid of iron (iron being a strong fat pro-oxidant) and declarable dietary fiber (dietary fiber of any type); and high in total and added sugars. Sodium is hardly ever a nutritional issue in frozen desserts; but trans fats may be if syrup and/or particulate inclusions are considered.
Less we forget, ice cream contains calcium, protein, fat-soluble and water-soluble vitamins in various amounts considering specific formulation objectives. In addition, the structure, temperature (remember frozen desserts at eating temperatures of 0 F to + 10 F; -18C to -12C; need time to rise to body temperature 98.6 F; 37 C), and composition of frozen desserts allow for delay/lengthening of rates of chewing, ingestion with delay of stomach emptying into the small intestine, and added delays in overall digestion, with small molecular weight compounds absorbed in the small intestine; larger less digestible molecules feeding the microbiome inhabiting the large intestine. All this influences the timing of release of various hormones, such as GPL-1 medications and similar. This in turn influences insulin release, blood sugar management, and feelings of satiety and wellbeing.
Despite Mother Nature’s laws of chemistry and physics being unchangeable, over the years, new ingredient tools have evolved to overcome nutritional deficiencies and leverage more good news, all while maintaining desirable sensory appeal (hyper-palatability.) While reminding ourselves that ice cream, and related products, are the only foods designed, formulated, manufactured, distributed and sold with the express intent of being consumed when frozen. Advances of which to be proud…….
- Novel approaches to fat reduction/replacement
- Novel approaches to sugar reduction/replacement
- Addition of water-soluble, prebiotic fibers
- Potential for water-insoluble low/no calorie fibers and other ingredients
- Novel approaches to total calorie content (including reduced and low caloric objectives)
- Formulating without sugar alcohols, or high intensity sweeteners
- Novel approaches to high protein objectives
- Plant-based and hybrid frozen desserts
- Compatibility with various diet and weight loss regimes
- Multiple serving size options (handheld novelties to multiple serving packaging)
So, we’ve reduced and/or removed fat, saturated fat, cholesterol, sugars (and added sugars), and achieved reduced/low caloric and specific protein nutritional objectives. All protecting sensory appeal, and compatibility with contemporary mix making, whipping/freezing, packaging and hardening, and conditions of storage/distribution and at points of consumption. For marketers and retailers, economics can be easily aligned throughout. Sounds like a win-win-win.
Quite a set of achievements.
So yes, counter to Mother Nature’s preferences, we can continue to create ice cream and other frozen desserts that are cold, sweet, tasty, AND good for you! With more yet to come!
Looking for a reprint of this article?
From high-res PDFs to custom plaques, order your copy today!








