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    Dairy Foods & BeveragesDairy Foods Columnists

    Enough of the plant-based hype

    Highly processed alternatives to dairy and other products are not worthy of a health halo.

    By Kathie Canning
    typing

    Photo courtesy of apichon_tee via gettyimages.com.

    May 11, 2022
    Kathie Canning
    Kathie Canning is editor-in-chief of Dairy Foods. Contact her at 847-405-4009 or canningk@bnpmedia.com

    My husband and I recently went grocery shopping together — a rare event — to purchase food and ingredients we needed for hosting a small cocktail party. We were in the cookie and cracker aisle when my husband spotted it: a brand of crackers touting “Plant-Based” on the front panel of its packaging.  

    We both burst out laughing — after all, the main ingredient in almost all crackers long has been wheat-based flour. And the last time I checked, wheat has been cultivated for use in food for thousands of years.

    This cracker brand, however, was leveraging the health halo those two words currently have. In my view, that’s deceptive marketing — after all, the “plant” portion (wheat) in these particular crackers had been stripped of its bran and germ during the flour-making process, robbing it of valuable fiber and nutrients.

    A misinterpretation 

    Although many experts agree that a plant-based diet (or a least a diet rich in plant foods) can be beneficial to one’s health, they certainly aren’t referring to highly processed alternatives to dairy products and meat. Instead, they are talking about plant foods in their whole form.

    “If followed properly, a whole foods, plant-based diet limits the use of oils, added sugars and processed foods, leaving only whole foods to provide nutrition,” notes the Cleveland Clinic on its website.

    Yet many dairy alternatives touting their plant-based status on the grocery shelves are, in fact, highly processed. For example, a study recently published on the National Library of Medicine website (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34291276/) found that 90.1% of plant-based beverages “and 95% of almond milks met the ‘NOVA criteria for ultra-processed foods,’ because they were created from food components and contained multiple substances not used in normal cooking.”

    In addition to being highly processed, many plant-based alternatives to dairy products lack at least one of the nine essential amino acids. In comparison, milk and dairy products made from it not only boast fewer ingredients than many of their highly processed imitators, but also contain all of the essential amino acids.

    Time to speak up

    Many experts agree that dairy also has an essential role to play in a healthy diet.

    For example, a review published on the National Library of Medicine website (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30247998/) concludes: “When consumed according to appropriate national guidelines, milk and its derivatives contribute essential micro- and macronutrients to the diet, especially in infancy and childhood where bone mass growth is in a critical phase. Furthermore, preliminary evidence suggests potentially protective effects of milk against overweight, obesity, diabetes, and cardiovascular disease, while no clear data suggest a significant association between milk intake and cancer.”

    Unfortunately, all of the plant-based hype and deception on the part of some marketers are getting in the way of positive dairy messaging. It’s up to the dairy industry to speak up and set the record straight.

    KEYWORDS: dairy alternatives plant-based

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    K canning headshot

    Kathie Canning, former editor-in-chief of Dairy Foods, is an award-winning journalist with more than 20 years of experience in the trade publication sector. Her experience includes leadership positions on a number of food and beverage publications for both processor and retail audiences. She is a graduate of the University of Toledo and is also certified as an Editor in the Life Sciences by the Board of Editors in the Life Sciences.

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