Let’s Twist Again
by Cathy Sivak
Contributing Editor
Contributing Editor
Sophisticated or subtle, traditional flavors take new turns.
Traditional favorites
have long dominated the dairy scene. The vanilla-chocolate-strawberry
comfort zone is often the first step for product developers and discerning
consumers looking to expand flavor experiences.
But flavor development is a complex dance based on
execution of gradual stages of flavor enhancements. “The industry
always talks about making a great leap forward in flavor innovations, when
in actuality, it is more of a series of small steps,” says Steve
Wolf, director of flavor applications at Robertet Flavors, Piscataway, N.J.
The reason is simple. “Unique twists on
traditional flavors allow for a new taste sensation while keeping consumers
in their comfort zone,” says Michelle Huber, senior flavorist for
Mastertaste Inc., Teterboro, N.J.
Myriad new flavor types and options carry opportunity
for processors. “It is just a matter of pairing the application with
the flavor and then finding a way to make the concept consumer
friendly,” Huber says. “You must take the application, end
product and target consumer preferences into account in order to create a
successful product.”
New flair for old favorites could mean an indulgent
new vanilla from Madagascar, an ethnic spin for chocolate or a hand-picked
strawberry taste combined with a superfruit. New flavor twists also partner
nicely with trends in health and wellness, indulgence, global fare
trends and the natural and organic arena.
Vanilla, Chocolate Choices
The base flavor of the dairy industry and a perennial
favorite with plain vanilla fans, new turns on vanilla flavors alone
continue can add new depth to branding and line extension efforts.
“Ice cream manufacturers have a whole line of
different vanilla ice creams, with more than one type of vanilla under one
brand,” says Paulette Kerner, marketing and communications director
at Brooklyn, N.Y.-based Virginia Dare. Different vanillas in the same brand
line typically carry names denoting the source and varietals, she notes,
similar to the cache wines have built with regional varieties.
“These days not many processors ask for regular
chocolate flavor for yogurt or milk. We tend to create flavors that are a
twist off the traditional,” Wolf says, citing recent requests that
range from varietals of chocolate to ethnic tastes such as Ibarra
chocolate, a take-off on a popular cinnamon-laced hot chocolate beverage in
Mexico.
Amazon Chocolate, introduced as part of the new
Häagen-Dazs Reserve line, is noted by Patty Baxendale, marketing
manager at Givaudan Flavors, Bridgeton, Mo. “This product shows how
the trend in origin specific chocolates can be translated to the ice cream
category,” she says. “And it shows that consumers continue to
be interested in variations on even the most basic flavors like
chocolate.”
Pairings including fruit and white and dark chocolate
flavors were a hit for Mastertaste in 2007. “Chocolate and strawberry
have always been two of the go-to dairy flavors, particularly in milk. Now
we are seeing twists on these, especially with chocolate,” says Dania
Rosenthal, marketing manager for the Mastertaste Natural Products Division.
“With dairy products in particular, consumers
may be a little wary of trying new, more exotic flavors. Because of this,
it might be important to pair the new flavor with a more traditional
one,” she says, noting the application is also a consideration.
“Consumers might not think to try a lychee white chocolate milk
product, while they may be more accepting of this flavor profile in an ice
cream.”
A new development for chocolate is flavors derived
from cocoa pulp, Wolf says. While the dried seeds of the cocoa bean provide
the traditional cocoa used in chocolate, a new process creates cocoa pulp
from the fleshy plant materials surrounding the seeds. “Cocoa pulp
has a very light chocolate note; you’re not going to mistake it for
chocolate. Since it’s from the same plant as chocolate, it’s
exotic, but not too exotic,” Wolf says, citing potential for blends
within the fruit matrix.
Chocolate is going beyond varietals specific to a
country and into particular regions in other food categories, a trend
expected to carry into dairy products, says Erin O’Donnell, David
Michael’s marketing manager.
“We are seeing a lot more dark chocolate and
more combinations of chocolate and coffees and dark flavors. Sophistication
of the consumer palate is driving the trend,” adds Jennifer Elgrim,
David Michael’s manager of sensory and consumer research.
“There are bases that lend themselves to different flavors. We know
that vanilla works very well in a fat-based dairy application, and
chocolate is another that needs to be carried by fat. But when you’re
talking about the ice type frozen products, the fruit flavors carry through
better, such as the acidic fruits found in ices and in gelatos.”
Super Fruity
Traditional fruit flavors such as strawberry, peach
and blueberry offered indulgent takes in 2007. Meanwhile, the health
benefits combined with ethnic taste demand and exotic appeal continue to
grow demand for tropical and superfruits.
Blends like strawberry-kiwi and peach-mango gave
secondary fruits an entry point into American grocery carts, and suppliers
stress similar pairings are essential for superfruit flavors migrating into
dairy. Fruits like pomegranate, açaí and goji berry are
loaded with health potential, but carry tastes unfamiliar to U.S.
consumers.
“Pairing these new superfruits with something
familiar like a strawberry or raspberry is important, or consumers are
going to shy away,” O’Donnell says.
Wolf predicts future dairy incorporation of intriguing
new superfruits such as camu-camu from Brazil, a source of vitamin C also
said to support immune function, heart health and serotonin levels in the
brain to act as a mood enhancer. Dragon fruit (pitaya) — rich in
fiber, vitamin C, minerals and antioxidant properties — is emerging,
O’Donnell says.
“We see more new flavor concepts and
introductions that may contain a traditional flavor, but are combined
with a more indulgent or exotic partner.” Mastertaste’s Huber
says, citing processor experimentation with the sweet litchi fruit (also
known lychee) with a standard berry flavor.
With or without an exotic spin, traditional fruit
flavors remain key. Consumers’ general interest in blueberries and
antioxidants has driven multiple blueberry-infused product launches over
the last two years, Baxendale says.
Flavors for milk are expanding to meet school system
demands for healthier beverage options such as Sherbet Milk from Robertet.
“It is a berry flavor, but sherbet-flavored milk sounds more
exotic,” Wolf says.
Flavored milk has also translated into indulgent
profiles like strawberry as well as peach or blueberry fruit cobblers for
Robertet, while its yogurt offerings have included strawberry-licorice,
strawberry shortcake and strawberry-peanut butter. “Once you go
beyond traditional strawberry, then you have to decide if it is foodservice
cake or Grandma’s strawberry shortcake,” Wolf says, noting
regional taste differences are also in play. Robertet’s new natural
line, Xtreme Flavors, offers familiar fruit flavors with what Wolf calls
“more pop.”
Increased interest in natural and organic products
extend the segment’s fresh ripe flavor profiles into
“regular” dairy products, says Anton Angelich, group vice
president of marketing at Virginia Dare. An example is a ripe, field-picked
strawberry taste crossing over to influence traditional jam-like strawberry
flavors.
Peach has likewise shifted its overall note.
“For a long time, the peach profile that was a winner with consumers
was a canned, cooked peach taste. Now processors are moving into a ripe
peach flavor,” Angelich says.
In peach yogurt, twists include combinations such as
grapefruit-peach, passionfruit-peach and peach with tropical superfruits
such as goji and açaí berries, Wolf says.
Ice cream flavors — including mango,
passionfruit, papaya and guava — scored high on the “have not
tried, but would like to” scale in a recent Virginia Dare survey of
300 frequent ice cream consumers.
Mango is another formerly “new” flavor
twist in transition to become more authentic to appeal to ethnic consumers,
says David Michael’s Peggy Pellichero, senior food technologist for
dairy applications. “Some of these mango flavors introduced a year
ago weren’t quite authentic, it was more of an ‘orangey’
mango, something we thought the consumers would accept,” she says.
The latest mango incantation showcased by David Michael is the juicy Manila
Mango, grown in Mexico.
Citrus is another area of interest in the overall
beverage category that is likely to migrate to dairy, with orange flavors
trending toward tangerine, and interest in Italian flavors such as
lemoncello, Angelich says.
Coffee Clatch
Coffee-laced indulgence is a hit in the flavored milk
segment, Wolf says, noting particular appeal with teens found lingering
over lattes at the neighborhood Starbucks. “What the kids in the
coffee culture are mostly drinking are very light on the coffee, and are
actually more of a dairy beverage,” he says.
Often the twist is in the name or the product
crossover, Wolf says. Indeed, the biggest portion of taste of frothy coffee
drinks comes from syrups with traditional dairy flavors such as vanilla and
caramel. “Vanilla-almond is not a new flavor combination. But if you
call it Coffeehouse Twist, all a sudden it seems new,” he says.
Coffee ice cream has “always had a strong
consumer base” in New England, Angelich says. “But that was
very traditional, sweet, milky dairy coffee, almost like a latte. With so
much exposure to the Starbucks flavor profile, ice cream processors are not
so much interested in the milk lattes flavors, but more the espresso of the
deep roast.”
The taste and health benefits of tea will continue to
make new varieties and tea flavor applications a force in the product
development year ahead, Angelich predicts.
Collaboration between flavorists and product
developers is critical for the health and wellness segment, suppliers
agree. Products with reduced or no sugar or fat can encounter taste and
texture issues that flavors can help overcome. Meanwhile, those with extra
nutritional elements create different flavor challenges.
The aging of America is driving fortified nutritional
products, particularly for hospitals, nursing homes and other institutional
settings. “But if it doesn’t taste good, it doesn’t serve
the purpose of providing the nutrition these people need,” Angelich
says.
The product development year ahead will continue to
bring new concepts to old flavors, one step at a time. Wolf predicts:
– going to be another half a twist forward.”
Cathy Sivak is a freelance journalist and a former
editor of Dairy Field.