All-Inclusive Show
by Cathy Sivak
Contributing Editor
Decadent additions to frozen desserts seek to bolster balance between the healthful and indulgent.
Indulgence remains key to frozen-dessert development, and ice creams chock-full of inclusions seek to balance consumer desire for decadence with the public’s ongoing interest in health and wellness. Product developers and inclusions suppliers continue to seek to combine the two into one all-inclusive product.
The light or “churned” ice cream segment
is increasingly entrenched as a frozen dessert category performer that can
serve all needs. As new technology and applications for churn-specific
inclusions continue to develop, suppliers expect ongoing category growth.
Pioneered by national powerhouse Dreyer’s Grand Ice Cream, the
churned segment is now gaining regional brand play. For instance, the
Ruggles Churned Premium Light Ice Cream line debuted this spring from Smith
Dairy Products Co., Orrville, Ohio. The eight flavor line — which
includes Butter Pecan, Cookies N Cream, Peanut Butter Chocolate Chunk and
others — offers products with 50 percent less fat and one-third fewer
calories than counterparts in the traditional Ruggles premium line.
“Increased interest in the health and wellness
ice cream segment is forged by growth in light ice cream sales,” says
Stephen Platt, vice president of new business development at Star Kay
White, Congers, N.Y. As a result, Star Kay White is focusing on offerings
of ingredients with a health halo benefit as well as indulgent ingredients
to “make light ice cream more exciting,” Platt says.
Creation of churned light ice cream products with
reduced fat and calorie levels and increased inclusion show is in demand by
processors, agrees Shawn Sullivan, senior vice president of Gertrude Hawk
Ingredients, Dunmore, Pa. “The manufacturers of the churned light
products have done a nice job with enhanced flavor and taste, and are now
focusing on increased show. The key to more show is to put more product
pieces in,” Sullivan says, noting Gertrude Hawk has tapped technology
to devise a solution.
The typical inclusion carries 350 pieces per pound. To
boost show, Gertrude Hawk has created downsized versions of its
chocolate-filled cups to fit more pieces into the same pound. The
company’s Micro Cups feature a 700-piece-per-pound count, while Nano
Cups carry 1,100 pieces per pound and experienced what Sullivan dubs as
“major growth” in 2007.
Recent panned product technology investments help the
company offer inclusions that provide show along with “innovations
that focus on size, taste and color,” Sullivan says.
The latest entry, Gertrude Hawk Polar Bits,
carries 1,500 seemingly random inclusion shapes per pound. In actuality,
the precisely molded low-melt chocolate-coated ice cream inclusions are
designed to prevent fines and to maintain finished product integrity.
Flavors include Irish crème, Grand Marnier, dark chocolate, white
chocolate, coffee, green mint and orange creamsicle.
Health-conscious flavor developers can also
increasingly tap into reduced-fat inclusions or those with zero trans-fats,
or utilizing only all-natural colors and flavors, Sullivan says.
Active Antioxidants
Antioxidant-laden fruits continue to blossom in ice
cream formulator plans, particularly in texture-driven variegates and as
base flavors. Star Kay White, for instance, reports ongoing interest in its
high antioxidant ingredients such as blueberry and pomegranate bases and
variegates.
Future product development with fruit inclusions is
likely to combine trendy base and inclusion combinations, such as a green
tea ice cream base with a pomegranate variegate, says Melissa Althen,
R&D specialist at Parker Products Inc., Fort Worth, Texas.
“Consumers are looking for any reason they can
find to feel better about eating indulgent products,” she says.
“They are also looking to try new flavor experiences and are becoming
more adventurous in their flavor choices.”
Justification for dark chocolate consumption is as
close as the latest news reports on the high antioxidant levels of cocoa
beans, and inclusions created from dark chocolate is a trend with continued
growth, Althen says. “Using dark chocolate is another way
manufacturers can make consumers feel better about eating their indulgent
products,” she says.
Likewise, Star Kay White notes its continuing efforts
in the chocolate arena. “We are working on a number of ways to
enhance the portfolio of chocolate products that our customers are
manufacturing,” Platt says. One example is the company’s
Chocolate Orange Truffle, a chocolate ice cream with swirls of chocolate
orange truffle.
Naturals, Organics & Fair Trade
The health and wellness focus carries over to organic,
natural and fair trade ice cream, and suitable inclusions are increasingly
in the mix.
With all-natural varieties peanut butter cup and
caramel cup inclusions the top-performing SKU’s in its line, Gertrude
Hawk has naturally expanded its reach. In February 2007, Gertrude Hawk
officially became a purveyor of certified organic ingredients.
“Our certification will enable organic ice
cream/desserts to offer the same exciting flavor profiles as regular ice
cream,” Sullivan says. “Organic ice cream is moving in a
positive direction, but it still had has a long way to go. Inclusions are
important; cups and shapes and fun sell ice cream. Organic needs to get
creative right now and offer some of the same flavor profiles as mainstream
lines. The bottom line is that ice cream is fun, and organic needs to tap
into it.”
Gertrude Hawk’s most recent organic triumph is
in the form of shell-molded inclusion cups and shapes, which Sullivan
points to as “drivers for flavor creativity and excitement in ice
cream.”
As industry suppliers gain organic certification and
secure a steady supply of ingredients, they foresee price parity on the
horizon. Despite advances, supply and pricing for burgeoning organic ice
cream industry ingredients continues to pose challenges. Long lead time and
an estimated 70 percent of organic crops under contract create a
combination that leaves supply for made-to-order needs short of demand,
Parker’s Althen notes.
Parker Products, organic certified since July 2006,
offers an organic cookies & cream grind price competitive with its
conventional counterpart, Althen reports. Parker is “working
diligently on exploring all organic ingredients available in order to
provide organic inclusions that taste great but still meet the
budget,” she says.
A possible bump on the organic inclusion horizon is a
proposed airline organic product import shipping ban tied to
environmentally detrimental carbon emissions. “This ban could
drastically affect supply on certain organic ingredients,” Althen
says.
Meanwhile, fair-trade ingredients such as cocoa,
sugar, vanilla, coffee and spices are creating new inclusions “that
allow consumers to show their support for fair labor practices and
environmentally friendly farming,” Althen says. “Fair trade is
a triumph for consumers who want to express their ethical stance on the
environment and global economics through the food they purchase.”
Inclusive Formulafor Success
Formulation and functionality challenges and
considerations inherent with inclusions use include moisture content,
freeze/thaw ingredient stability, the melt points of fats, the type and
degree of flavor, potential for color bleed and overall shelf life.
“These are just a few of the traditional factors that must be
considered when choosing an inclusion for a frozen system,” Althen
notes.
An example is Parker’s lollipop inclusion,
available in both coated and uncoated versions; some customers want the
small round pillow of hard candy uncoated to achieve a color bleed effect,
while others prefer coated for intact inclusion color, she explains.
Numerous inclusions are designed to help product
developers address specific processing needs. For instance, custom blends
of multiple inclusions offered by Parker Products provide a one-step
feeding process with consistent mix results. The blends likewise help
processors overcome challenges such as obsolescence in feature flavors with
unique ingredients, Althen says.
In 2006, new technology brought a wave of textured
variegates offering crunch particles in formerly creamy only standbys such
as caramel, chocolate and berry. As processors embrace the concept,
industry suppliers continue to add value and functionality.
“Having worked in an ice cream manufacturing
plant, I can sympathize with production supervisors who have been given the
challenge of running ice cream with a textured variegate,” Althen
says, noting that textured variegates must incorporate the right size
particulate in proper quantities to efficiently run through a ribbon pump;
it’s simply often more efficient to infuse particulates such as
cookie pieces through a fruit feeder. “But if you can create
something that truly adds intrigue, like variegate with crunchy sprinkles
made from edible glitter, then it becomes worthwhile.”
Texture and flavor combine in Star Kay White concepts
such as Sugar Cone Crunch, a vanilla ice cream with a sugar cone variegate
and milk chocolate peanuts. Its Toffee Apple flavor features a creamy
caramel ice cream with a chunky apple variegate and pieces of toffee.
“In the area of new approaches for inclusion applications, we are
always experimenting with interesting ways to deliver texture and
flavor,” Platt says.
“Every time we make a presentation we are aware
that we must deliver mainstream flavor ideas,” he explains.
“But at the same time, we want to leave our customers asking the
question, “Is the market really ready for this idea?”
Layered Flavors
Trends point to demand for complex flavor notes that
tap more than the collective consumer’s sweet tooth. “Ice cream
is typically thought of as a sweet treat, but to create a generation of
consumers addicted to your product, smart developers are learning to invoke
multiple flavor experiences,” Althen says. “People want
multiple layers of flavors that fulfill more than one sense of
taste.”
Gaining ground in indulgent frozen-dessert experience
creations is a combination of sweet, salty and savory umami, a derivative
of glutamates and ribonucleotides. One example of an umami-rich food
already embraced with ongoing success is green tea, which carries a high
level of glutamates, Althen says. Parker offerings that tap this trend
include a roasted pineapple/brown sugar variegate, salted caramels, ginger
soy-glazed almonds and sesame brittle. Althen reports that even salt is
used as a standalone inclusion, and can be both coated to stay crunchy and
flavored to create greater depth.
“Parker’s inclusion developers don’t
just want to create a new food item that tastes good — we want to
create something that will have people hooked,” she says. “Many
of our new inclusions are being developed to invoke satisfaction from
multiple kinds of taste buds.”
Inclusions that translate the flavor and texture of
other foods to ice cream in development at Parker Products seek better
functionality than the original model. For instance, actual bread pudding
does not perform well at frozen temperatures, but what Althen describes as
a “soft flavored gooey” can mimic a chunk of bread pudding to
create bread pudding ice cream. “The gooey piece remains chewy
without becoming icy or soggy as actual bread pudding would,” she
says. “Combine it with custard flavored ice cream and a sweet whiskey
sauce and you’d swear you were eating rich bread pudding topped with
smooth vanilla ice cream.”
Other new inclusion innovations and approaches
emerging include unique combinations of separate desserts, such as
Parker’s fried cheesecake ice cream concept.
For the future, Althen advises, watch for indulgent
frozen dessert portion control to tap food-industry- wide health and
wellness trends. “Rather than give up on the food items they love to
indulge in, people are realizing that it is a more realistic goal to have
better control over their portion sizes,” she says. Inclusion-infused
mini-desserts with built-in portion control — what Althen describes
as “a full dessert experience in a small package” — can
help the category provide consumers with a “little boost in will
power.”
Cathy Sivak is a freelance journalist and a former
editor of Dairy Field.
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