The Cold Truth
by Lynn Petrak
Although sales dip slightly, diverse products continue rolling out to a splintered marketplace.
Ice cream has
always had a certain sentimental cache in the world of dairy products.
Legions of people have expounded on the comfort factor associated with ice
cream, including the legendary poet Ralph Waldo Emerson, who once mused,
“We dare not trust our wit for making our house pleasant to our
friend, so we buy ice cream.”
The state of the ice cream category is akin to the
eclectic array of product offerings available right now. Retail freezers
are chockfull of indulgent flavors, cutting-edge flavors, varieties with
some type of health and diet profile and options for those interested in
the sourcing of ice cream ingredients.
Scoop shops and restaurants, meanwhile, are also
getting rather prolific and creative, mixing up special and sometimes
savory profiles.
According to Carl Breed, director of marketing for
Brenham, Texas-based Blue Bell Creameries, such diversity has become
crucial. “That’s why we have a no-sugar-added line, a light
line, a yogurt line and a sherbet line in addition to all of our indulgent
flavors,” he says.
2005 Production of Frozen Desserts | |
Millions of gallons | |
Regular ice cream | 953.0 |
Lowfat and nonfat ice cream | 384.7 |
Frozen yogurt | 65.1 |
Water ice | 66.1 |
Sherbet | 59.1 |
Other | 7.7 |
Source: IDFA |
John Pimpo, brand development manager for
Cleveland-based Pierre’s Ice Cream Co., agrees. “There are as
many types of ice cream consumers as there are flavors of ice cream, and we
cater to each with varieties of ice cream for every occasion,” he
says.
The folks at Smith Dairy Products Co., Orrville, Ohio,
also have recognized the fact that consumers often talk — and eat
— out of both sides of their mouths. “I believe there are
conflicting trends in ice cream, with more indulgent flavors than every
before, yet healthier choices with less fat, less calories, than ever
before, too,” says Penny Baker, director of marketing.
The lines between segments can get a bit fuzzy. Sean
Greenwood, spokesman for Ben & Jerry’s Homemade Holdings Inc.,
the South Burlington, Vt.-based subsidiary of Unilever, says that there is
some crossover. “We find that, more and more, people kind of eat
across the board,” he says, adding that sometimes consumers look for
lowfat, no-sugar-added or low-carb profiles, while other times, they
moderate intake by not consuming an entire pint at one sitting. And then
there are the occasions, Greenwood notes, when ice cream aficionados decide
to splurge.
Crunching the Numbers
As ice cream makers continue to introduce new
products, production statistics reflect the industry’s earnest
efforts to be more things to more people. According to the latest edition
of Dairy Facts,
published by the Washington, D.C.-based International Dairy Foods
Association (IDFA) and Dairy Field, production of ice cream increased 0.9 percent in 2005 over
2004, to a total of 1.54 billion gallons. Within the total category,
regular ice cream production rose 3.5 percent, good news for the segment
that comprises nearly two thirds of the entire market.
Total U.S. Production of Frozen Desserts (Hard and Soft) 1995-2005 (in millions of gallons) |
|||||||
Year | Regular ice cream |
Lowfat and nonfat ice cream |
Frozen yogurt |
Sherbet | Water ices |
Other frozen dairy products |
Total frozen products |
1995 | 862.2 | 400.7 | 152.1 | 53.5 | 71.3 | 19.1 | 1,559.0 |
1996 | 878.6 | 407.6 | 118.1 | 52.6 | 65.9 | 10.8 | 1,533.6 |
1997 | 913.8 | 426.3 | 92.2 | 53.1 | 70.9 | 12.8 | 1,569.1 |
1998 | 935.1 | 449.5 | 97.2 | 54.6 | 73.1 | 14.7 | 1,624.2 |
1999 | 972.2 | 421.1 | 90.9 | 54.5 | 70.3 | 13.9 | 1,622.8 |
2000 | 979.6 | 404.1 | 94.5 | 51.9 | 65.8 | 11.6 | 1,607.6 |
2001 | 970.1 | 402.6 | 52.6 | 64.4 | 71.2 | 10.5 | 1,571.4 |
2002 | 1,005.0 | 359.6 | 70.8 | 57.0 | 67.6 | 8.7 | 1,568.6 |
2003 | 992.9 | 418.6 | 70.4 | 54.1 | 60.6 | 7.2 | 1,603.8 |
2004 | 919.9 | 409.8 | 64.5 | 54.9 | 64.0 | 8.1 | 1,521.2 |
2005 | 953.0 | 384.7 | 65.1 | 59.1 | 66.1 | 7.7 | 1,535.7 |
% change | |||||||
’04-’05 | 3.5% | -6.5% | 0.8% | 7.0% | 3.3% | -4.8% | 0.9% |
Source: IDFA, received from USDA, National Agricultural Statistics Service |
The second largest segment, lowfat/nonfat ice cream,
showed new life in the first part of 2006 with lowfat ice cream production
up 2.2 percent. Still, as plants churn out the frozen goods, production
doesn’t necessarily mirror consumption.
According to Chicago-based Information Resources Inc.
(IRI), sales of regular ice cream dipped 0.4 percent to just over $4
billion from December 2005 to December 2006. Sales of frozen yogurt
declined 0.5 percent, while sherbet, sorbets and ices lost 2 percent. The
silver lining seems to be the frozen novelty category, which experienced a
1.7 percent increase to $2.25 billion. Sales of ice cream and ice milk
dessert climbed a more substantial 7.8 percent.
Ten Leading States in 2005 Production of Ice Cream and Related Products (Hard and Soft) | |
Millions of gallons | |
Florida | 21.7 |
Ohio | 25.9 |
Missouri | 26.7 |
Utah | 27.0 |
New York | 30.0 |
Illinois | 39.9 |
Minnesota | 44.7 |
Texas | 58.7 |
Indiana | 95.8 |
California | 139.0 |
Source: IDFA |
The Splurge Factor
Indulgence has always been a term associated with ice
cream, but the word has taken on a new meaning in recent years with a spate
of superpremium and ultra-premium varieties.
Most recently, Americans’ ongoing love affair
with chocolate is reflected in rollouts from national and regional ice
cream manufacturers. “No question — chocolate is hot right now,
especially premium chocolate,” says Malcolm Stogo, author and
president of ice cream consulting business Malcolm Stogo and Associates in
New York.
The Dove® line of superpremium chocolate-based ice creams from
Mars Inc., Hackettstown, N.J., has expanded to include more tub products,
with recent varieties like Unconditional Chocolate, Vanilla with a
Chocolate Soul, Chocolate and Brownie Affair and Chocolate and Cherry
Courtship, among others.
The Dreyer’s and Edy’s brands from the
Nestlé-owned, Oakland, Calif.-based Dreyer’s Grand Ice Cream
Inc. also recently unveiled more choco-centric flavors, including a new
Choc’N Roll Caramel. Hot Chocolate is an increasingly popular
variety, with Blue Bell Creameries and Smith Dairy launching their versions
of Hot Chocolate ice cream in the last year and both reporting strong early
consumer interest.
In addition to chocolate, the indulgent segment has
also touched upon a trend by capitalizing on another favorite sweet treat:
cake. Several ice cream companies have married cake and ice cream,
including Dreyer’s, which offers a new Take the Cake flavor with
yellow cake flavored ice cream combined with colorful sprinkles and a
“frosting” swirl. At Blue Bell Creameries, Breed also reports a
similar cakewalk, so to speak. “With over 80 percent of our ice cream
sales coming from the indulgent segment, we spend most of our time on
that,” he says, adding that in addition to other indulgent flavors,
cake-based varieties include new Mississippi Mud Cake, a regional King Cake
flavor for the Louisiana market and a soon-to-be launched flavor called
Anniversary Cake, to mark the company’s centennial year in 2007.
Another all-American dessert, pie is in the mix as
well. Smith Dairy developed a Grandma Ruggles Blueberry Pie variety last
spring, made with vanilla ice cream, a blueberry swirl and sugar coated pie
crust pieces. “The consumer response was amazing and we received lots
of fan mail on that flavor,” Baker says. Blue Bell also has found a
positive reaction to its Lemon Ice Box Pie flavor, Breed says.
Nestlé’s Häagen-Dazs brand garnered
interest in one of its dessert-inspired flavors, too. Last summer,
Häagen-Dazs appeared in a special Food Network television special
called “Scoop,” in which consumers submitted their ideas and
recipes. The winning entry was based on an English dessert, Sticky Toffee
Pudding. “After that show, the flavor was such a success that we
literally got thousands of calls from consumers saying they couldn’t
find it on the shelf,” says Josh Gellert, brand manager. “We
were able to ramp up production and meet demand.”
While dessert and ice cream go together, so too do
sweets and coffee. On the new product front, the HP Hood-owned Kemps brand,
based in St. Paul, Minn., added a new series of co-branded ice creams made
with Caribou® coffee in 2006, including Caribou Blend, Java Chunk, Turtle
Mocha and Caramel High Rise.
In the indulgent category, some flavors reflect the
desire to capture premium ethnic flavors, like the now-standby Dulce de
Leche. The Breyers® brand from the Green Bay, Wis.-based Good Humor-Breyers
subsidiary of Unilever, for instance, now carries a special-edition Fried
Ice Cream, based on the popular Mexican dessert and featuring cinnamon
caramel light ice cream swirled with honey caramel and pieces of cinnamon
tostada.
Breed agrees that certain ethnic flavors have come to
the fore, but cautions that marketing certain flavors to appeal to distinct
ethnic groups, like Hispanics and Asians, is not always a straightforward
deal. “A few years ago, we introduced a line of Southwest flavors,
inspired by dessert traditions from Latin America,” he says.
“We learned a lot from marketing those flavors and mainly, it is that
when it comes to ice cream, Hispanics are like most other consumers —
they like ice cream that tastes good. It doesn’t have to come from
Latin America.”
Playing to the Palate
It’s pretty much a given that Americans love
chocolate and confections paired with ice cream. But as they develop more
sophisticated tastes, new and intriguing types of ice cream flavors have
emerged.
“In today’s age, the advent of the
Internet as well as the Food Network have done a superb job of informing
the consumer to what is new, exciting and flavorful,” says Gary
Barron, president of SheerBliss Ice Cream, the Hallandale Beach, Fla.-based
manufacturer of gourmet ice cream sold in signature cans. According to Barron, SheerBliss has
found a following for its unique ice cream flavors, including its signature
pomegranate with dark chocolate chips.
“The taste of pomegranate is new to the palate
and the flavor notes suggest something in the raspberry family of flavor.
It has a sweet-tart type of flavor,” he explains, adding that another
customer favorite is the brand’s pomegranate ice cream bar dipped in
dark chocolate.
Häagen-Dazs is also heeding such trends with a
new line set to be introduced in 2007, called Häagen-Dazs Reserve.
“This is about up and coming flavors, ingredients that are not as
widely accepted but that are interesting to consumers in our group who are
looking for something different out of ice cream,” Gellert says.
Among the inaugural flavors in the Häagen-Dazs Reserve line:
Pomegranate Chip, Brazilian Acai, Lehua Honey and Sweet Cream and Amazon
Valley Chocolate.
Healthy Outlook
Indulgence aside, the better-for-you segment has become
a force of its own in recent years. Here, too, varieties of ice cream and
novelties are available that suit not only different palates but a range of
dietary plans, spanning lowfat/no fat, no sugar added, low carb and lactose
free.
Two decades after the first reduced-fat and -calorie
ice creams arrived in stores, ice cream makers continue to develop
better-for-you products, emphasizing the taste factor. Häagen-Dazs,
which launched its Light line two years ago using a new proprietary
technology, calls its lifestyle-driven product line its second-biggest
business. “There are certain consumers who say, ‘I don’t
care if it tastes exactly the same, I want regular ice cream,’ and we
have a ton of flavors for that,” Gellert says. “There are other
consumers who say if the taste is the same, they can have twice as much of
the Light.”
According to Gellert, the success of any light or
better-for-you product ultimately hinges on quality. “For consumers
who enjoy a lighter ice cream, every single Light flavor we test goes
against our regular lineup,” he says. “It has to be on par with
or preferred to regular to get into this line.” In the next few
months, Häagen-Dazs will introduce more Light flavors, including Mocha
Chip, Rocky Road and a new chocolate version.
Pierre’s also has spent considerable R&D time
on creating more better-for-you items that mimic the flavors and indulgent
feel of regular ice cream. In early spring, according to Pimpo, the company
plans to add three new flavors to its Slender® No Sugar Added Reduced Fat Ice Cream line, including
Peanut Butter Cup, Black Raspberry Chip and an ice cream sandwich novelty.
Other major ice cream companies have geared up to meet
demand with more better-for-you products as well.
Dreyer’s/Edy’s has added a No Sugar Added series to its popular
Slow Churned® line, in addition to a line of Slow Churned Yogurt Blends.
Breyers now offers Double Churned Light, Double Churned No Sugar Added and
Double Churned 98 Percent Fat Free.
Going Organic
Another trend worth watching in the ice cream category
is the growing interest in organic products, with brands like Ben and
Jerry’s and Breyers recently adding organic options to their stable.
“We feel like we have a toe dipped in that pond. It’s a
fraction of what we’re doing now, but it’s another area that we
have a product line to offer,” Greenwood says of Ben &
Jerry’s organic products.
According to Stogo, organic will be a big buzzword in
the category. “Organic is leaning toward the more mainstream
population. I think the (major) manufacturers of ice cream will have
organic, if they don’t have it now, in the next year,” he
predicts. Still, he cautions, like low-carb, there is a potential for this
new segment to fizzle due to oversaturation.
While organic is tied to the notions of sustainability
and corporate and consumer responsibility, Ben & Jerry’s has been
working another responsibility-focused project. Last fall, the company
added vanilla and chocolate to its line of “fair trade”
products. “We were the first frozen-foods manufacturer and the first
ice cream company to announce fair trade back in April. It’s one of
those areas that we want to be able to pay farmers a better price for their
product,” Greenwood explains. This spring, Ben & Jerry’s
will roll out fair trade varieties in pint-size packages, in addition to
its current bulk offerings.
Making it on Marketing
From a marketing perspective, ice cream brands have
continued to double their equity by teaming up with other brands. Breyers,
for instance, offers Bubble Yum® flavored ice cream and Dora the Explorer ice cream
featuring the popular children’s cartoon character.
Dreyer’s/Edy’s has gotten extra mileage out
of the wild success of the television show “American Idol” with
limited-time flavors featuring that show’s logo and tied-in flavors
like Hollywood Cheesecake and Soulful Sundae Cone, among others.
Other traditional marketing efforts still run the gamut
from advertising, sampling and in-store materials to special offers and
sweepstakes. After its successful “Scoop” program last year,
Gellert says that for 2007, the company is teaming up with Gourmet magazine and is already
soliciting entries via various channels.
Finally, as ice cream makers invest in new products and
supporting marketing programs, what else can the category look to in 2007?
Stogo, for his part, cites some non-dairy competition on the horizon.
“With what’s happening with organic, with
shoppers liking Whole Foods and the organic selections at Wal-Mart as an
extension of that, I think there is a trend going back to soy,” he
says. “Soy has been flat for a couple of years and I think that trend
will reverse itself — it will start to happen now and happen within
two years.”
Lynn Petrak is a freelance journalist based in the
Chicago area.
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