Trying Times
By Julie Cook Ramirez
Still reeling from last year’s high prices, milk
processors struggle with new challenges and strengthening competition.
Terrorists May Target Milk Supply” —
Understandably wary in the face of the ongoing terrorist threat that hit
home with a vengeance on September 11, 2001, Americans were alarmed by this
headline that splashed across newspapers and cable news networks this past
spring.
For most consumers, the concern began when it was
reported that the Agriculture Department had discovered the school lunch
program was particularly vulnerable to terrorist attack. What’s more,
milk — long considered a near-perfect example of a wholesome, healthy
product — could very well become one of the most likely targets for
tampering with biological or chemical agents.
TOP 10 WHOLE MILK BRANDS* | ||||||
$ Sales (In Millions) | % Change vs. Year Ago | Dollar Share | Unit Sales (In Millions) | % Change vs. Year Ago | ||
Total Category | $3,256.4 | 0.2% | 100.0% | 1,240.9 | -4.7% | |
Private Label | 2,086.4 | -1.6 | 64.1 | 795.7 | -5.3 | |
Borden Milk Products LP | 50.5 | 15.8 | 1.6 | 17.9 | 10.2 | |
Horizon Organic | 40.1 | 29.7 | 1.2 | 10.9 | 26.3 | |
Tuscan Farms | 33.4 | 43.0 | 1.0 | 13.6 | 33.4 | |
Garelick Farms | 32.3 | 8.4 | 1.0 | 14.2 | 0.4 | |
Lactaid 100 | 30.7 | 3.0 | 0.9 | 8.7 | 1.3 | |
Pet | 29.3 | 4.1 | 0.9 | 10.8 | -4.1 | |
Prairie Farms | 29.0 | -2.0 | 0.9 | 11.8 | -6.8 | |
Mayfield | 26.9 | -4.7 | 0.8 | 8.1 | -12.4 | |
Dean’s | 26.4 | -5.6 | 0.8 | 11.7 | -13.3 | |
* Total sales in supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandisers, excluding Wal-Mart, for the 52-week period ending July 10, 2005. SOURCE: Information Resources Inc. |
Under pressure from the Department of Health and Human
Services (HHS), the National Academy of Sciences (NAS) temporarily delayed
publication of its own research paper on the vulnerability of milk, which
Stewart Simonson, assistant secretary of HHS, charged was “a road map
for terrorists.” The NAS pledged to review the paper, which Simonson
contended provided too much detail on potentially vulnerable areas of the
milk supply, processing and distribution systems. Its mere publication, he
argued, “could have very serious health and national security
consequences.”
The article, penned by Stanford University professor
Dr. Lawrence Wein, theorized that hundreds of thousands of people could be
poisoned if terrorists were to exploit vulnerabilities in milk processing.
Included within was information on milk pasteurization, the dose of
botulinum toxin for humans, the toxin’s heat sensitivity and the
capacities of the silos in which milk is stored.
While this scenario is certainly frightening enough to
strike fear in the hearts of many Americans, milk processors remain
confident that the vast majority of consumers won’t be fazed by the
story. In fact, industry officials were quick to respond, noting that the
scenarios described in Wein’s article are unlikely, due to safeguards
taken by processors and producers.
“The milk industry has always been one of those
targets that people could target to cause problems for America, but I think
consumers will be realistic and realize that they need to be vigilant, but
not overly concerned,” says Ron Schroder, director of marketing,
Swiss Valley Farms, Davenport, Iowa. “The industry as a whole has
such a great track record of assuring the safety of the milk supply in this
country, and that outweighs any negative media attention.”
Much of that good track record was acquired when
addressing the first reported American case of mad cow disease (the popular
name for bovine spongiform encephalopathy, or BSE), which was discovered in
a Washington state dairy cow in 2003. Having long ago prepared for such an
event, industry groups leaped into action, assuaging fears that it might be
possible to contract the disease through milk consumption, which it
isn’t.
TOP 10 SKIM/LOWFAT MILK BRANDS* | ||||||
$ Sales (In Millions) | % Change vs. Year Ago | Dollar Share | Unit Sales (In Millions) | % Change vs. Year Ago | ||
Total Category | $6,799.1 | 3.8% | 100.0% | 2,762.3 | 0.5% | |
Private Label | 4,254.4 | 3.5 | 62.7 | 1,773.1 | 1.9 | |
Lactaid 100 | 201.1 | 11.4 | 3.0 | 61.5 | 5.6 | |
Horizon Organic | 111.9 | 25.5 | 1.6 | 31.6 | 21.5 | |
Kemps | 92.3 | 2.2 | 1.4 | 35.7 | -4.9 | |
Dean’s | 81.7 | 2.9 | 1.2 | 38.2 | -4.0 | |
Garelick Farms | 72.7 | 9.3 | 1.1 | 30.8 | 1.6 | |
Hood | 70.1 | 9.3 | 1.0 | 26.7 | 3.3 | |
Prairie Farms | 69.7 | -4.3 | 1.0 | 30.2 | -8.6 | |
Mayfield | 63.1 | 1.6 | 0.9 | 18.5 | -6.3 | |
Land O’Lakes | 55.5 | 17.8 | 0.8 | 23.4 | 15.7 | |
* Total sales in supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandisers, excluding Wal-Mart, for the 52-week period ending July 10, 2005. SOURCE: Information Resources Inc. |
TOP 10 FLAVORED MILK/EGGNOG/BUTTERMILK BRANDS* | ||||||
$ Sales (In Millions) | % Change vs. Year Ago | Dollar Share | Unit Sales (In Millions) | % Change vs. Year Ago | ||
Total Category | $724.4 | 0.6% | 100.0% | 393.9 | -4.5% | |
Private Label | 213.1 | 8.7 | 29.4 | 117.3 | 5.2 | |
Nestlé Nesquik | 101.5 | -6.8 | 14.0 | 59.4 | -6.6 | |
Dean’s | 29.4 | -7.0 | 4.1 | 16.6 | -13.7 | |
Kemps | 16.7 | -5.6 | 2.3 | 8.6 | -12.0 | |
Hershey’s-Morningstar | 15.1 | -26.4 | 2.1 | 7.6 | -32.9 | |
Mayfield | 13.2 | 4.6 | 1.8 | 6.2 | -3.9 | |
Prairie Farms | 12.3 | 12.6 | 1.7 | 6.9 | 6.3 | |
Borden Milk Products LP | 11.8 | -8.8 | 1.6 | 5.4 | -13.0 | |
Garelick Farms | 11.5 | 2.1 | 1.6 | 5.7 | -6.2 | |
Land O’Lakes | 11.4 | 26.6 | 1.6 | 5.8 | 20.9 | |
* Total sales in supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandisers, excluding Wal-Mart, for the 52-week period ending July 10, 2005. SOURCE: Information Resources Inc. |
The specter of BSE reared its ugly head once again just
days after stories surfaced about terrorists possibly targeting the U.S.
milk supply. America’s second case of the disease — the first
in a U.S.-born animal — was confirmed in June, only to be followed by
a third suspected case in July.
So far, American consumers don’t seem overly
alarmed by these most recent discoveries. According to a recent Food Safety
Monitor survey by The NPD Group, Port Washington, N.Y., 98 percent of
adults reported having heard or read something about the disease. Just 22
percent considered themselves “very worried” about the disease,
however.
“This is not to suggest that mad cow disease
isn’t a serious issue,” says Harry Balzer, NPD vice president.
“If we ever see herds of cows with this disease and start having the
bovine bonfires seen in Britain a few years ago, then we can expect a
change in consumer behavior, but not with the limited scale seen at this
time.”
That’s certainly good news for a milk industry
already struggling to recover from last year’s high prices and
fighting an ongoing battle with competitive beverages determined to steal
its share of stomach. According to Chicago-based Information Resources Inc.
(IRI), whole milk sales inched up 0.2 percent in dollars, but fell 4.7
percent in units throughout supermarkets, drug stores and mass
merchandisers (excluding Wal-Mart) during the 52-week period ending July
10, 2005.
Even flavored milk, which has been often cited as the
savior of the industry, failed to live up to its lofty expectations, rising
a meager 0.6 percent in dollars, but falling 4.5 percent in units.
According to Schroder, that’s because flavored milk is looked upon as
more of a discretionary purchase and thus more likely to be impacted by
price fluctuations than white milk.
Interestingly, only skim/lowfat milk managed to achieve
any real gains, rising 3.8 percent and 0.5 percent, respectively. While
consumers have largely abandoned the low-carb diet craze that swept the
nation over the past two years, they seem to have retained a
health-consciousness that carries over into their milk choices.
At the same time, scientific evidence related to the
healthful nature of milk continues to emerge. Among the latest findings has
been the most welcome news that simply adding calcium to other beverages
does not make them nutritional substitutes for milk. Published in Nutrition Today, the study found
that milk is the most reliable source of calcium and far superior to
calcium-fortified soy and rice beverages, as well as many fortified orange
juice brands. That’s because much of the calcium tends to settle to
the bottom of fortified soy and rice beverages, a problem not resolved
merely by consumers shaking the container.
“Hand shaking wasn’t enough,”
explains Robert Heaney, M.D., of the Osteoporosis Research Center at
Creighton University, Omaha, Neb. “We found that really vigorous
shaking, such as with a hardware store paint shaker, would have been needed
to suspend the calcium in these beverages, so you can put them in a glass
and drink them.”
Embracing Organic
As consumers seek out healthier beverages, organic milk
has experienced rapid growth. Last year, in fact, sales of organic milk at
health food and conventional stores hit $834 million, according to
ACNielsen LabelTrends. As a result, a number of companies previously
hesitant to enter the market have finally thrown their hat into the ring
– with smashing results.
After declining many offers to co-pack organic milk
over nearly a 20-year period, Stonyfield Farms, Londonderry, N.H., finally
gave in to pressure and partnered with Chelsea, Mass.-based HP Hood LLC to
sell Stonyfield Farm Organic Milk. Hood co-packs the milk and manages
production and sales, while Stonyfield handles brand marketing. The
ultrapasteurized product boasts a 70-day shelf-life and is sold in
half-gallon gabletop cartons in four varieties: Fat-Free, Low-Fat (1%),
Reduced-Fat (2%) and Whole.
“Organic milk is a very powerful and popular new
segment, mostly because dairy, in general, is a primary entry point for
consumers interested in organic and milk is the most consumed dairy
product, of course,” says Gary Hirshberg, Stonyfield’s
president and chief executive officer.
The organic milk market has become so strong, so
quickly, that shortages have become a significant problem, as processors
struggle to meet the rapidly growing demand. As a result, some stores have
been receiving only 70 to 80 percent of their regular orders. This leaves
organic milk producers seeking ways to meet that demand, while remaining
true to the organic promise, which maintains that organic cows must be free
of bovine growth hormones and most antibiotics. In addition, their feed and
the land on which it is grown must be free of any synthetic herbicide,
fungicide, pesticide or petroleum-based fertilizer for at least three
years.
“Organic milk turns out to have been one of the
wildest possible rides we could have ever been on, and we just happened to
pick the wildest possible year in which to enter it,” Hirshberg
says. “If I knew what was actually going to transpire, I would have
waited one year.”
Struggling with Soy
While battles still rage as to whether so-called
“soymilk” really belongs in the dairy case, fluid milk
processors find themselves facing an amazingly fast-growing soy beverage
industry. Granted, soy beverage sales don’t come anywhere near the
massive $10.2 billion milk market, but it’s an altogether different
picture when you consider that milk sales have been decidedly lackluster,
while sales of soy-based drinks grew 31 percent last year, according to
ACNielsen’s executive report, “What’s Hot Around the
Globe: Insights on Growth in Food and Beverages 2004.”
In previous years, fluid milk processors shrugged off
any gains being reported by the soy beverage industry. In light of
soy’s tremendous growth, that raises the obvious question: Is it a
new ballgame now?
“It’s a ballgame, and they are on first
base,” proclaims Molly Murphy, marketing and sales director, Quality
Chekd Dairy Products Association, Naperville, Ill. “They might be
rounding to second.”
Recognizing that soy beverages were taking valuable
shelf space away from fluid milk, Quality Chekd decided to add a co-branded
soy beverage to its offerings. As Murphy explains, “If you’re
going to take my shelf space, let it be with something I’m selling
you.”
Available in Chocolate, Vanilla and Original varieties,
Quality Chekd Organic Soymilk is sold by four Quality Chekd member dairies:
Hiland Dairy Foods Co., Springfield, Mo.; Umpqua Dairy Products Co.,
Roseburg, Ore.; Rockview Dairies Inc., Downey, Calif.; and Sinton Dairy
Foods LLC, Colorado Springs, Colo.
La Farge, Wis.-based Organic Valley also recently
introduced a soy beverage that doesn’t require any masking agents to
cover the beany aftertaste that has turned off so many potential soy
beverage consumers. That’s because Organic Valley uses beans that are
“very consistent” genetically, explains Teresa Marquez, chief
marketing executive. In addition, their unique process uses the whole bean,
something she believes no other U.S.-based soy beverage manufacturer does.
Calling All Kids
Seeking to stave off competition and boost milk
consumption, processors continue targeting kids in hopes of raising a whole
new generation of milk drinkers. Of particular interest is the school milk
program, in large part because it reaches virtually every school-age child
from coast to coast. DMI has been encouraging processors to improve their
school milk programs by offering more flavors and by switching to
resealable plastic bottles.
“We see school milk as, if not the most
important opportunity, then certainly one of the most important
opportunities that milk processors and the dairy industry have sitting in
front of them,” says Grant Prentice, executive vice president of marketing and business development, Dairy
Management Inc. (DMI), Rosemont, Ill. “Our studies have shown when
you upgrade the experience of the milk that’s delivered to school
children by offering a good-tasting product in a variety of flavors in a
plastic resealable package, you see significant sustained levels of
consumption and growth year-on-year.”
To date, milk is offered in plastic, resealable bottles
in just 1,500 of the nation’s 90,000 schools. In part, many schools
have resisted the switch to plastic because bottled milk tends to cost
more. Their reservations don’t end there, however, according to
Annette Jim, director of marketing, Byrne Dairy Inc., Syracuse, N.Y.
“The schools are over-worried about issues like
sugar content or caffeine levels or the fat in milk,” Jim says.
“A lot of schools have banned whole milk, and we’ve seen some
of our flavored milks go down as well.”
Those schools that have jumped on the bandwagon have
experienced tremendous results. According to the National Dairy Council,
the New Look of School Milk pilot program, involving 100,000 students in
146 schools across the country, revealed that milk consumption increased 37
percent, milk sales increased 18 percent and secondary lunch participation
increased 5 percent when plastic, resealable bottles of flavored milk were
offered.
“In some cases, we’ve seen 50 to 100
percent increases in milk consumption in schools that have adopted this
practice, and it’s not just short-term improvement either,”
says Prentice. “There’s a long-term benefit in that it
increases a kid’s perception of milk as a competitive choice. If they
can develop that perception early in life, we’ve got a much better
chance of keeping them as milk drinkers when they enter their teen years
and adulthood.”
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