Inclusions Galore
by Lori Dahm
Imagination leads to creative ingredients making their
way into the ice cream carton.
While trends come and go,
ice cream remains a favorite food for most consumers. One of the reasons
ice cream retains its popularity is because ice cream manufacturers offer
continual excitement in the category with dynamic new flavors and
varieties.
Inclusions play a big part in this variety rotation;
the most innovative new ice cream products pay homage to the original
chocolate chip cookie dough introduced by Ben and Jerry’s 13 years
ago.
The inclusion ingredients available today have come a
long way — what consumers now experience as chunks and pieces in ice
cream were unheard of a decade ago. Inclusion suppliers have developed
ingredients that change texture or color or even reproduce the experience
of eating ethnic cuisines. This imaginative world of inclusions promises to
keep consumers happily immersed in ice cream with a continual rotation of
new varieties that include everything but the kitchen sink.
Baked Pieces
One of the constants in inclusions is cookie dough
— one of the most popular inclusion pieces used in ice creams. Cookie
dough was the first inclusion ingredient that originally delighted
consumers’ imaginations, and continues to be one of the most widely
embraced inclusion ingredients.
“Cookie dough remains in the top 10 flavors for
most ice cream manufacturers, and more manufacturers are introducing new
cookie dough ice creams continually,” says Subha Luck, industrial
sales manager at Rhino Foods, Burlington, Vt. “It is amazing that the
market is not over-saturated with cookie dough ice creams. Instead, the
demand continues to grow and we are seeing retail outlets put cookie dough
into their shakes.”
Extruded baked inclusions overall have become very
popular; a close second to cookie dough is the fudge brownie-type inclusion
pieces. Many inclusion suppliers indicate that cake pieces and pie pieces
are growing in popularity.
“The dough, cake and batter pieces are
hitting home with consumers,” says Jay Brigham, executive vice
president at Pecan Deluxe, Dallas. “We did a brownie batter Blizzard
for Dairy Queen and it was the biggest Blizzard item on the map last
year.”
As consumers have become accustomed to seeing the
brownie-type baked inclusions in ice creams second to cookie dough in
prevalence, other baked pieces have become more widely used, such as apple
pie pieces, pound cake, muffin bites or chocolate cake.
“There are two key considerations when using the
bakery inclusions. The first is that we want the consumer to have a fully
decadent experience. But the second is that we want our ingredients to be
operationally friendly for the plant,” says Richard Hauber, director
of frozen and chilled desserts, Kerry Sweet Ingredients, Chicago. “So
we might modify the fat system and use lower melt oils to deliver the same
degree of lusciousness upon consumption that you would have at room
temperature. Or we might alter the sugar balance to offset sugar
crystallization and give a piece more chew.”
For the suppliers of bakery inclusions, it is
important to find the balance between supplying an ingredient that is soft
for the proper sensory experience but yet remains intact through the ice
cream manufacturing equipment. Many of the inclusion ingredients are given
a protective coating or barrier for this purpose. Perfection of such
techniques opens the world of baked inclusion ingredients to limitless
possibilities.
“We have developed new cake pieces that are
starting to become a hit, like tiramisu or chocolate cake or blonde
brownies. Some of the more innovative cake pieces we’ve shown include
a pineapple cake piece, a ginger pineapple cake piece or a lemon ginger
lowfat cookie dough,” Luck says. “We even had a bread pudding
piece that we worked on and people loved, but these haven’t yet found
a market.”
Texture
While the trend might be heavily weighted toward the
baked-type pieces, the big news in the world of inclusions might be in
variegates. New variegates have been developed called “textured
variegates,” meaning that the liquid swirls contain pieces that add
crunch or texture.
“Textured ribbons are getting big —
delivering textures with pieces either included in the swirl or using a
thick fudge variegate that sets up like a liquid chip,” Brigham says.
“You can put pieces in the ribbons, like a pie piece, as long as the
piece is small enough to fit through the variegator without getting
stuck.”
While having pieces in a fudge or caramel swirl has
become avant garde and trendy, there are technical considerations that must
be considered during the formulation of these ingredients if they are to
perform properly.
“A textured variegate is one of the latest
trends. This is a fat-based variegate which uses a fat matrix to distribute
a crunch particle throughout the ice cream,” Hauber says. “The
fat matrix has two functions: It allows the crunch particle to be processed
through the variegating machinery at the ice cream manufacturer, and the
fat protects the crunchy particle from absorbing water from the ice cream
so that it delivers crunch upon consumption.”
The ice creams that are packed full of chunks and
pieces and nuts often include a swirl or ribbon of fudge or caramel or
another such liquid ingredient because variegates are a way of pumping up
the indulgence quotient.
“We make our variegates as a complement to the
overall flavor of the system, so maybe the acid or lemon of a variegate can
allow the chocolate of the inclusion to pop more, or the salt in a caramel
swirl might make a nut pop to give enhanced flavor perception,”
Hauber says. “Sometimes we might use high amounts of cocoa in a
variegate which tastes bitter by itself, but it makes another inclusion
ingredient or the ice cream more balanced or stronger overall.”
And then sometimes variegates can be the creative
tie-in for the overall ice cream product’s concept. For example, a
chocolate cake piece in Perry’s Ice Cream plays off the chocolate
variegate which emulates chocolate frosting — the entire product is
akin to eating a piece of chocolate cake with ice cream.
“We did a french fry and ketchup ice cream
concept for kids where we had a chocolate covered fry piece in ice cream
and a red chocolate sauce variegate running through the ice cream,”
Brigham says. “In another version of this concept we pulled the
variegate out and made it into a chocolate red sauce to dip the chocolate
fry into as an interactive frozen dessert for kids.”
This landscape of kids’ products is often the
playground for some of the most innovative inclusion ingredients.
“We have used pop rocks in kids’ ice
creams, which must be chocolate covered or they pop in the ice cream before
making it into kids’ mouths,” Brigham says. “We just
created an ice cream with a color-changing paint ball inclusion which makes
kids’ mouths turn blue.”
On the more adult side from Pecan Deluxe, innovative
inclusion ingredients have been of the ethnic cuisine variety, including a
sesame-walnut inclusion piece, a fortune cookie piece, or the pastry pieces
of Hispanic cuisine such as sopapillas or churros. In fact, inclusion
ingredients representing Hispanic cuisine may be one of the emerging
trends.
“We had an inclusion ingredient that was a
cornbread-type piece called sweet tamale,” Luck says. “A
molé brownie-type piece was another.”
Going Nutty
Nuts remain eternally popular as inclusion pieces.
Butter pecan is a mainstay in the ice cream case, along with rocky road
varieties or the plethora of ice creams that include almonds. The
best-selling nuts are pecans, followed by almonds, walnuts and peanuts.
“The number-one inclusion piece in terms of nuts
is the chocolate coated almond piece, but chocolate-coated nuts are popular
in all forms — chocolate-coated cashews, hazelnuts in milk and dark
chocolate and chocolate-coated peanuts,” says Mark Graziano, owner
and vice president of sales, Terry Lynn Inc., Elgin, Ill.
“Chocolate-coated peanuts are starting to make a comeback as a
popular inclusion ingredient.”
Although U.S. nut harvests have been relatively large
for the past few years, the growing popularity of nuts around the world has
translated to higher prices for nuts here in the United States. Some
manufacturers are altering the mix of nuts used in certain ice creams. For
example, pecan prices are very high today, and manufacturers may try using
cashews as an adjunct nut in certain products.
“One of the more innovative ingredient ideas I
have presented is the option of a chocolate-covered cranberry piece,”
Graziano says. “Considering that cranberries and almonds go together
well, a great cost-savings could be an ice cream product with both of these
chocolate-covered ingredients together in the mix, complemented by a dark
fudge variegate.”
While market fluctuations may affect the ratio of
inclusion ingredients used in combination, the development of new and
innovative inclusion types continues to expand the repertoire available.
But one mantra remains in the world of ice cream — products that are
loaded with fun and tasty inclusion ingredients are what consumers want.
“It seems like ice cream is one category where
consumers demonstrate a lot of loyalty, because manufacturers give them an
indulgent experience they have come to love,” Graziano says.
“The current ice cream products open the door for people to step out
of their comfort zone and try something different, to try a new and
exciting variation that their favorite brand offers. Overall, these
innovative new products have been a great development for the ice cream
case and the category.”
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