The Right Balance
by Julie Cook Ramirez
Facing a backlash from a newly health-focused consumer
public, ice cream makers struggle to keep their products relevant.
Smack dab in the middle of
the second record-breaking heat wave in just as many years, ice cream
makers are scratching their heads. Long viewed as a summer family favorite,
ice cream just can’t seem to get out of the stable these days,
despite the intense heat.
While one might expect to see overheated consumers
cooling off by indulging in a pint of their favorite flavor, category sales
remain flatter than flat for the second year in a row.
According to Chicago-based Information Resources Inc.
(IRI), dollar sales of ice cream in supermarkets, drug stores and mass
merchandisers, excluding Wal-Mart, fell 0.9 percent during the 52-week
period ending June 18, 2006, while unit sales rose 1.2 percent — for
all intents and purposes, a wash.
Processors have a variety of theories when it comes to
explaining that lackluster performance, everything from the weather —
“Sometimes, it can just be too hot,” says Kristen Deshaies,
brand manager, Ben & Jerry’s Homemade Holdings Inc., South
Burlington, Vt. — to the natural maturity of the category —
“We consider ice cream to be a mature market, where there probably
aren’t going to be huge increases, and hopefully not huge decreases,
at any time,” says Katie Koppenhoefer, spokesperson for the
International Dairy Foods Association’s International Ice Cream
Association, in Washington, D.C.
TOP 10 INDIVIDUAL ICE CREAM BRANDS* | ||||||
$ Sales (In Millions) |
% Change vs. Year Ago |
Dollar Share |
Unit Sales (In Millions) |
% Change vs. Year Ago |
||
Total Category | $4,025.9 | -0.9% | 100.0% | 1,247.2 | 1.2% | |
Private Label | 807.9 | -5.2 | 20.1 | 279.6 | -3.8 | |
Breyers | 632.8 | 13.5 | 15.7 | 195.2 | 21.6 | |
Dreyer’s/Edy’s Grand | 451.0 | 2.3 | 11.2 | 135.7 | 2.8 | |
Häagen-Dazs | 275.7 | 20.3 | 6.8 | 82.8 | 20.6 | |
Blue Bell | 252.6 | 1.2 | 6.3 | 75.1 | 0.8 | |
Ben & Jerry’s | 192.1 | 1.5 | 4.8 | 62.5 | 3.9 | |
Dreyer’s/Edy’s Slow Churned | 164.8 | 4.1 | 4.1 | 45.3 | 3.8 | |
Dreyer’s/Edy’s | 133.4 | 69.3 | 3.3 | 36.3 | 70.1 | |
Wells’ Blue Bunny | 111.7 | 6.5 | 2.8 | 31.9 | 13.1 | |
Turkey Hill | 105.8 | 6.2 | 2.6 | 37.5 | 7.2 | |
* Total sales in supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandisers, excluding Wal-Mart, for the 52-week period ending June 18, 2006. SOURCE: Information Resources Inc. |
Overall, however, everyone seems to agree that
it’s the current focus on health that has most negatively impacted
ice cream sales. From nightly news reports on obesity and growing incidents
of type-2 diabetes, to reality TV shows like “Honey, We’re
Killing the Kids” and the documentary film “Super Size
Me,” consumers are becoming aware like never before of the long-term
effects of the foods they put into their bodies. And increasingly, say
processors, they are coming to view ice cream as one of those
indulgences they can do without.
“It’s become clear that consumers are more
interested in making healthier choices when it comes to nutrition and
diet,” says Penny Baker, marketing manager, Smith Dairy Products,
Orrville, Ohio. “They’ve been inundated with all kinds of
articles about the obesity crisis, so they are making wiser selections and
they’ve come to view regular premium ice cream, which is the bulk of
the frozen desserts category, as one of those indulgent foods that can be
sacrificed.”
Granted, no one is about to throw in the towel on ice
cream. On the contrary, many in the industry view the shift to healthier
eating as an opportunity for ice cream makers to flex their R&D muscle
and come up with creative, healthier alternatives that still deliver on the
promise of ice cream, without the guilt.
“You can’t make it something it
isn’t, but maybe you can find the answer in making it a little
healthier or a little easier to justify in a diet,” says Miriam
Erickson Brown, president and chief executive officer, Anderson Erickson
Dairy Co., Des Moines, Iowa.
That’s exactly what ice cream makers are
attempting to do. Over the past several years, we’ve witnessed a
number of processors rolling out reduced-fat or no-sugar-added offerings,
all designed to give health-conscious consumers a reason to stick with ice
cream.
America’s largest ice cream processor, Oakland,
Calif.-based Dreyer’s Grand Ice Cream Holdings Inc., got out in front
of the trend early, rolling out its Slow Churned Light Ice Cream. This
year, the Nestlé-owned Dreyer’s added five new flavors to the
line: Raspberry Chip Royale, Almond Praline, Cherry Chocolate Chip, Double
Fudge Brownie and Peanut Butter Cup, along with two Limited Edition
flavors, Nestlé Drumstick Sundae Cone and Orange & Cream.
While Dreyer’s utilizes a proprietary
low-temperature freezing technology to produce light ice cream that tastes
like premium ice cream, sister brand Häagen-Dazs uses a proprietary
European low-temperature blending technology for producing its
Häagen-Dazs Light line. This year, the company bolstered the line with
the addition of several new flavors: Blueberry Cheesecake, Caramel Cone,
Chocolate Fudge Brownie, Cookie Dough, Cookies & Cream, Dutch Chocolate
Chip and Vanilla Caramel Brownie.
Not about to be upstaged by the big boys,
Cleveland-based Pierre’s French Ice Cream Co. unveiled its Smooth
Churned Light Ice Cream last fall. Containing half the fat and 30 percent
fewer calories than Pierre’s regular ice cream, Smooth Churned is
available in Chocolate Silk, Mint Chocolate Chip, Vanilla and Black Cherry
Vanilla varieties.
Meanwhile, in Green Bay, Wis., the No. 2 ice cream
maker — the Unilever-owned Good Humor-Breyers Ice Cream Co. —
experienced such strong response to its Double Churned ice cream line,
introduced in 2005 in both Light and No-Sugar-Added varieties, that the
company recently expanded the line to include 98% Fat Free varieties.
Not all “healthier” ice creams have been
so well received, however. Ben & Jerry’s (also owned by Unilever)
had high hopes for its Body & Soul line of reduced-fat versions of four
of its signature flavors, introduced last year. Unfortunately, the product
failed to live up to expectations, as Ben & Jerry’s consumers
just didn’t warm up to the idea of a reduced-fat Chocolate Fudge
Brownie.
“It’s the type of product that people were
looking for, but there seemed to be a communication challenge with
it,” Deshaies says. “It just didn’t meet a specific
standard of identity, like light ice cream does.”
Still, Ben & Jerry’s has not given up on the
line, continuing to maintain two SKUs of the product — Cherry Garcia
and Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough — primarily on the west coast where,
Deshaies says, “there’s a good consumer fit.”
This year, Ben & Jerry’s has turned its
attention to sorbet, which Deshaies calls “another great
better-for-you kind of direction in terms of lower fat content.” So
far, the company has rolled out three varieties of sorbet: Strawberry Kiwi
Swirl, Jamaican Me Crazy and Berried Treasure.
TOP 10 FROZEN NOVELTY BRANDS* | ||||||
$ Sales (In Millions) |
% Change vs. Year Ago |
Dollar Share |
Unit Sales (In Millions) |
% Change vs. Year Ago |
||
Total Category | $2,195.6 | -2.8% | 100.0% | 758.4 | -2.0% | |
Private Label | 330.2 | -0.4 | 15.0 | 140.9 | -0.2 | |
Nestlé Drumstick | 132.7 | 11.1 | 6.0 | 40.0 | 19.3 | |
Klondike | 127.0 | 1.7 | 5.8 | 43.1 | 2.1 | |
Dreyer’s/Edy’s Whole Fruit | 98.4 | 9.3 | 4.5 | 33.3 | 9.1 | |
Popsicle | 92.9 | 1.1 | 4.2 | 36.3 | 4.3 | |
Silhouette Weight Watchers | 79.7 | -25.9 | 3.6 | 18.3 | -23.0 | |
Smart Ones | 69.6 | -37.2 | 3.2 | 17.4 | -36.6 | |
Häagen-Dazs | 57.2 | 14.0 | 2.6 | 18.9 | 16.4 | |
Klondike Carb Smart | 51.7 | 12.4 | 2.4 | 13.9 | 11.9 | |
Klondike Slim-A-Bear | 48.2 | -7.7 | 2.2 | 14.9 | -4.6 | |
* Total sales in supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandisers, excluding Wal-Mart, for the 52-week period ending June 18, 2006. SOURCE: Information Resources Inc. |
Also embracing the trend toward healthier frozen
desserts, J&J Snack Foods, Pennsauken, N.J., recently expanded its line
of Minute Maid-branded frozen products with the addition of Minute Maid
Soft Frozen Raspberry Lemonade and Minute Maid Soft Frozen Cherry Limeade.
While the renewed consumer focus on health may be
making things somewhat difficult for the ice cream category, it just may be
setting the stage for the long-anticipated return of frozen yogurt. After
years of spiraling downward, a number of processors predict that frozen
yogurt is poised for a comeback. In large part, Deshaies says, that’s
due to the rise of the natural food channel.
“There’s a real alignment between the
natural food mindset and frozen yogurt, which has a lot of natural
connotations to it,” Deshaies says. “I wouldn’t be
surprised at all to see that bounce back and begin growing in the near
future.”
Like Ben & Jerry’s, Stonyfield Farm also
remains dedicated to the frozen yogurt category. While few companies are
investing much R&D in the category, the Londonderry, N.H.-based organic
dairy bolstered its frozen yogurt offerings earlier this year with the
addition of Raspberry White Chocolate Chunk. Smith Dairy also remains
bullish on frozen yogurt, recently rolling out two new flavors: Peaches
‘n Cream and Strawberry Cheesecake.
“I think people are going back and thinking,
‘Frozen yogurt … Yogurt!’” Baker says. “Just
as they view yogurt as good for them, they are getting the mindset that
frozen yogurt is going to be good for them, too.”
Indulge Thyself
Recognizing that full-fat ice cream still accounts for
the lion’s share of category sales, processors have unleashed their
annual onslaught of indulgent new premium and superpremium offerings. While
the trend is usually to introduce a full-fat product first and then develop
a reduced-fat version later, Good Humor-Breyers turned the tables on the
ice cream category, rolling out a regular, full-fat version of its
Double-Churned product.
Good Humor-Breyers unveiled Cyclone, a line of
soft-frozen ice cream with various indulgences mixed in. All four flavors
— Cookies ‘n Cream, Caramel Tracks, Choco Chip Cookie Dough and
Chocolate Fudge Brownie — are available in supermarkets and
convenience stores. For the latter channel, the company included a spoon
under the lid and adjusted the size of the container to make it the perfect
fit for car cup holders, according to Dan Hammer, vice president of
marketing and development.
Häagen-Dazs teamed up with the Food Network to
launch a national search for a new indulgent flavor, asking ice cream
lovers to submit their ideas. A two-hour special program that aired in July
followed the development process of the five finalists’ flavors and
national sampling efforts to select the winner: Sticky Toffee Pudding. The
favorite among consumer tasters and deemed the best fit for
Häagen-Dazs’ brand profile, the limited-edition flavor
—vanilla ice cream swirled with toffee sauce and morsels of brown
sugar cake — will be available in stores through January.
Stonyfield Farm, meanwhile, partnered with Anaheim,
Calif.-based Honest Tea to produce Vanilla Chai ice cream. Built on a
creamy vanilla base, the product gets an added “zing” from rich
spices like ginger, cinnamon and cardamom. The folks at Stonyfield Farm
predict that consumers will “just go wild” over the new flavor.
Wild is always the name of the game for Ben &
Jerry’s, and this year is certainly no exception. The company got the
jump on the season, rolling out Black & Tan ice cream (named for the
barroom mix of stout and lager beers) just in time for St. Patrick’s
Day in March. Made with a European non-alcoholic stout extract, the stout
ice cream is swirled with chocolate ice cream and topped with a foamy stout
ice cream head. Consumers were initially somewhat leery of a beer-flavored
ice cream, but Deshaies says it has proven extremely popular with high
repeat rates.
“Once in a while, we like to put a flavor out
there that really raises eyebrows and makes people say, ‘Are you
kidding me?!’” she says. “It’s a delicious flavor
and the kind of thing that you would expect Ben & Jerry’s to do
if anyone’s going to do it.”
TOP 10 FROZEN YOGURT/TOFU INDIVIDUAL BRANDS* | ||||||
$ Sales (In Millions) |
% Change vs. Year Ago |
Dollar Share |
Unit Sales (In Millions) |
% Change vs. Year Ago |
||
Total Category | $160.9 | -7.2% | 100.0% | 48.3 | -7.2% | |
Private Label | 32.9 | -5.3 | 20.4 | 12.0 | -4.3 | |
Dreyer’s/Edy’s | 31.5 | -4.7 | 19.6 | 8.2 | -5.7 | |
Ben & Jerry’s | 17.8 | -9.8 | 11.0 | 5.6 | -8.8 | |
Turkey Hill | 14.2 | 1.2 | 8.8 | 4.6 | 1.1 | |
Häagen-Dazs | 11.2 | -17.7 | 7.0 | 3.4 | -18.5 | |
Organic Soy Delicious | 6.0 | 33.9 | 3.7 | 1.4 | 31.8 | |
Ben & Jerry’s 2Twisted | 5.0 | -4.7 | 3.1 | 1.5 | -4.8 | |
Tofutti | 4.3 | -2.5 | 2.7 | 1.4 | -3.7 | |
Kemps Live Healthy | 3.8 | 1,665.9 | 2.3 | 0.9 | 1,618.0 | |
Blue Bell | 3.5 | -2.2 | 2.2 | 0.8 | -1.7 | |
* Total sales in supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandisers, excluding Wal-Mart, for the 52-week period ending June 18, 2006. SOURCE: Information Resources Inc. |
Other new Ben & Jerry’s flavors include
Turtle Soup, which Deshaies says “plays off the turtle candy
concept.” It consists of vanilla ice cream with fudge- and
caramel-covered cashews and a caramel swirl. Likewise, Apple Pie, brings
another popular dessert flavor to ice cream in a limited-batch edition. The
apple pie-flavored ice cream features apple and pie crust pieces mingled
throughout.
Working in conjunction with the British comedy troupe
Monty Python, the company rolled out Vermonty Python, a coffee liqueur ice
cream with a chocolate cookie-crumb swirl and fudge cow-shaped inclusions.
Another new flavor, Neapolitan Dynamite (named for the cult-hit film shot
in Idaho’s dairy country), combines two other popular Ben &
Jerry’s flavors, Cherry Garcia and Chocolate Fudge Brownie, in one
container.
Like Ben & Jerry’s, Brenham, Texas-based
Blue Bell Creameries relies heavily on rotating flavors to determine which
ones will prove most popular with consumers. This year’s assortment
includes Chocolate Brownie Overload, Banana Strawberry, Fudge Brownie Nut,
Hot Fudge Brownie, Key Lime Pie, Peanut Butter Cup, White Chocolate Almond
and Chocolate Covered Strawberries, as well as two market-specific rotating
flavors: King Cake, based on the popular Mardi Gras dessert, and Delta
Blues, which features sweetened blueberries, baked pie crust pieces and a
blueberry sauce swirl.
“Rotational flavors are a vital part of our
whole ice cream success,” says Carl Breed, director of marketing.
“Once consumers figure out our program and how it works, it really
keeps them excited and coming back for more.”
Novelty Nation
While ice cream makers have to struggle to overcome
consumers’ concerns over overindulging, frozen novelties are already
well-positioned to withstand the rough waters of this latest health craze.
As portion control becomes a paramount concern, an increasing number of
consumers are turning to frozen novelties as they seek to indulge in a
creamy treat without “blowing the calorie meter,” according to
Matt Smith, vice president of marketing, CoolBrands International,
Ronkonkoma, N.Y.
“Frozen novelties have the edge over packaged
ice cream because it’s portion-controlled,” Smith says.
“When people are consuming ice cream, they pull out a pint, grab and
spoon, and go to town. Before they know it, they’ve had 500 calories.
That’s not an issue with frozen novelties.”
Frozen novelty makers have been busy ensuring that
consumers never find themselves at a loss when seeking a cool, creamy
treat. CoolBrands unveiled Godiva Ice Cream Bars, based on the best-selling
pint flavors of Godiva super-premium ice cream. The White Chocolate
Raspberry Bar features white chocolate ice cream with raspberry swirls
enrobed in Godiva dark chocolate coating, while the Belgian Dark Chocolate
Bar features Belgian dark chocolate ice cream enrobed in Godiva milk
chocolate coating. The company also embarked on an upgrade of its classic
Eskimo Pie bars, which has resulted in what Smith calls a creamier, richer,
better-tasting, textured product.
CoolBrands also rolled out Yoplait Frozen Yogurt &
Cereal Bars, intended to provide a nutritious, on-the-go frozen snack for
any time of the day. All three varieties — Strawberry, Vanilla &
Wildberry and Vanilla & Raspberry — provide up to 15 vitamins and
minerals and as much calcium as an 8-ounce glass of milk.
TOP 10 INDIVIDUAL ICE POP NOVELTIES BRANDS* | ||||||
$ Sales (In Millions) |
% Change vs. Year Ago |
Dollar Share |
Unit Sales (In Millions) |
% Change vs. Year Ago |
||
Total Category | $58.5 | -0.6% | 100.0% | 36.0 | -7.2% | |
Select | 10.0 | 35.1 | 17.1 | 3.5 | 37.4 | |
Pop Ice | 8.9 | -9.4 | 15.2 | 3.2 | -13.8 | |
Fla Vor Ice | 6.4 | 16.6 | 11.0 | 2.2 | -2.0 | |
Private Label | 6.0 | -15.5 | 10.3 | 2.2 | -24.5 | |
Bolis | 5.4 | -5.4 | 9.3 | 8.7 | -7.5 | |
Fla Vor Ice Spiderman | 5.2 | -27.0 | 8.8 | 4.1 | -27.2 | |
Otter Pops | 5.1 | 8.7 | 8.7 | 2.1 | 7.2 | |
Kool Aid Kool Pops | 2.7 | -10.6 | 4.6 | 1.8 | -9.4 | |
Wyler’s | 1.8 | 29.8 | 3.0 | 0.9 | 30.1 | |
Wells’ Blue Bunny Chill | 0.9 | 159.1 | 1.5 | 0.3 | 189.9 | |
* Total sales in supermarkets, drug stores and mass merchandisers, excluding Wal-Mart, for the 52-week period ending June 18, 2006. SOURCE: Information Resources Inc. |
Although not typically known for novelties, Ben &
Jerry’s expanded its offerings this spring with the introduction of
The Cone, said to be the first packaged super-premium ice cream cone. It is
currently available in two signature Ben & Jerry’s flavors:
Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough and Cherry Garcia. Likewise, Blue Bell expanded
on the success of its popular Great Divide (Homemade Vanilla and Dutch
Chocolate in the same container) with the introduction of Great Divide
Cones and The Great Divide Bar.
Portion-control reigns supreme in the form of Dibs
bite-sized ice cream snacks from Dreyer’s. Introduced last year, the
line proved so popular that it’s already been extended. New varieties
include Peanut Butter; Caramel, Cookies ‘n Cream, Strawberry and
Toffee Almond.
Hot on the heels of Dibs’ success, Good
Humor-Breyers rolled out Ice Cream Poppers, a line of co-branded bite-size
ice cream snacks featuring favorite cookie and candy flavors, such as
Hershey’s, Oreo, Heath and Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup.
A number of manufacturers are rolling out kid-centric
goodies. Among them, Good Humor-Breyers added several new licensed and
co-branded items to its Popsicle line, including Dora the Explorer, Fear
Factor and Sugar-Free Lifesavers.
Once again, portion control remains top of mind for
CoolBrands. Smith cites the difference between his company’s
Incredibles Cone and higher-calorie offerings from competitors.
“Mom’s biggest concern is, ‘I buy
this stuff and my child won’t finish it all,’” he
explains. “This is a cone that a kid will actually finish and a mom
can feel good about because it’s only 120 calories.”
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