Farmstead cheese movement shows dynamic growth in California, while Wisconsin remains the leading cheese manufacturing state.



California, host of this year's Marschall Cheese and Dairy Expo, not only is one of the country's largest cheese producers, it also is home to a rapidly growing farmstead cheese movement that is emerging as a leading force in the country's specialty cheese industry. While only a tiny percentage of the approximate 1.6 billion lbs of cows milk cheese the state produced in 2002 came from farmstead producers, this small amount of handcrafted cheese is increasingly sought after by chefs, specialty retailers and cheese connoisseurs in California and across the country.

In 1997, California had just three farmstead cows milk cheesemakers. Today, it is home to eight. A farmstead cheese is similar in concept to an estate wine, which designates a wine made from the winery's own grapes. A farmstead cheese is an artisan cheese produced on the farm using only milk from the herd located on that farm. This enables the farmstead producer to direct the entire cheesemaking process-from determining the cow's feed, which affects milk flavor, through aging of the cheese.

The growth of California farmstead cheesemaking is no accident. According to Nancy Fletcher, California Milk Advisory Board (CMAB) vice president of communications, one of CMAB's goals with its Real California Cheese marketing campaign is to encourage

production of a wide variety of California cheeses. To accomplish this, CMAB has been educating California dairy families about cheesemaking and has held several seminars to introduce dairy families to cheesemaking as well as sponsoring cheesemaking classes at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo.

Today, California has more than 60 cows milk cheesemakers who produce 160 varieties and styles of cheese-a dramatic increase from the 70 types the state's cheesemakers produced in 1995. California assumed the title of leading dairy state in 1993 based on its rapidly growing milk production, and the state currently ranks second in cheese production.

Wisconsin leads the country in cheese production, producing a record 2.2 billion lbs in 2002, up from 2.1 billion lbs in 2001. This accounts for 26% of the country's 8.6 billions lbs produced in 2002, which was a 4.1% increase from 2001.

Some of Wisconsin's most significant gains were in the specialty cheese arena. Specialty cheese production increased 20% in 2002, as compared to 2001, as more Wisconsin manufacturers added

specialty cheeses to their product lines. In 2002, specialty cheese accounted for 281 million lbs, or 13% of the state's total cheese output, with at least

two-thirds of Wisconsin's cheese plants now producing one or more types of specialty cheese. The most popular specialty cheeses are Hispanic- and Italian-style cheeses.

Wisconsin's rapid growth in specialty cheese production is reflected by a strong performance in U.S. retail cheese sales. The Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board reports that for 2001, specialty cheeses accounted for 32% of exact-weight retail cheese sales. These figures are part of a four-year, overall growth trend, with specialty cheese accounting for 85% of the growth in exact-weight retail cheese sales. Specifically, Hispanic cheeses increased 71.3% in volume sales, while volume sales for Italian varieties such as Romano and Asiago grew 45.3% and 24.5%, respectively.

California cheesemakers, too, are competitive in the specialty cheese business. In fact, California currently has more than 60 cows milk cheesemakers producing 160 varieties and styles of cows milk cheeses, most of which are specialty cheeses. This marks a dramatic increase over the 70 types of cheese produced in California in the mid-1990s.

California's specialty cheesemaking industry is experiencing energetic growth that echoes the reputation the state acquired for fine winemaking in the 1970s. This growth has been fueled by the rise of regional cuisine in which California chefs are creating menus emphasizing the finest local foods, including handcrafted local cheeses. It also is due to the increased sophistication of the consumer palate that is prompting specialty food stores to expand their cheese selection.

Farmstead and specialty cheeses are typically sold in the self-service deli. What's so special about the self-service deli? To consumers, the self-service deli means authenticity (natural-looking cheeses that seem genuine to their origins), delectation (cheeses that appeal to the senses either alone or as recipe enhancers), quality (fresh, tasty and even healthful) and sophistication (unique, sometimes imported and definitely more pricey). It is the premium positioning, and of course, the cheeses themselves, that make farmstead and specialty cheeses winners with consumers. These are two business opportunities that cheesemakers should not pass on.

The cheese course provides a venue for farmstead and specialty cheeses to shine. These cheeses are also great for entertaining.

In 1997, California had just three farmstead cows milk cheesemakers. Today, it is home to eight. A farmstead cheese is similar in concept to an estate wine, which designates a wine made from the winery's own grapes. A farmstead cheese is an artisan cheese produced on the farm using only milk from the herd located on that farm. This enables the farmstead producer to direct the entire cheesemaking process-from determining the cow's feed, which affects milk flavor, through aging of the cheese.

The growth of California farmstead cheesemaking is no accident. According to Nancy Fletcher, California Milk Advisory Board (CMAB) vice president of communications, one of CMAB's goals with its Real California Cheese marketing campaign is to encourage _production of a wide variety of California cheeses. To accomplish this, CMAB has been educating California dairy families about cheesemaking and has held several seminars to introduce dairy families to cheesemaking as well as sponsoring cheesemaking classes at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo.

Today, California has more than 60 cows milk cheesemakers who produce 160 varieties and styles of cheese-a dramatic increase from the 70 types the state's cheesemakers produced in 1995. California assumed the title of leading dairy state in 1993 based on its rapidly growing milk production, and the state currently ranks second in cheese production.

Wisconsin leads the country in cheese production, producing a record 2.2 billion lbs in 2002, up from 2.1 billion lbs in 2001. This accounts for 26% of the country's 8.6 billions lbs produced in 2002, which was a 4.1% increase from 2001.

Some of Wisconsin's most significant gains were in the specialty cheese arena. Specialty cheese production increased 20% in 2002, as compared to 2001, as more Wisconsin manufacturers added _specialty cheeses to their product lines. In 2002, specialty cheese accounted for 281 million lbs, or 13% of the state's total cheese output, with at least _two-thirds of Wisconsin's cheese plants now producing one or more types of specialty cheese. The most popular specialty cheeses are Hispanic- and Italian-style cheeses.

Wisconsin's rapid growth in specialty cheese production is reflected by a strong performance in U.S. retail cheese sales. The Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board reports that for 2001, specialty cheeses accounted for 32% of exact-weight retail cheese sales. These figures are part of a four-year, overall growth trend, with specialty cheese accounting for 85% of the growth in exact-weight retail cheese sales. Specifically, Hispanic cheeses increased 71.3% in volume sales, while volume sales for Italian varieties such as Romano and Asiago grew 45.3% and 24.5%, respectively.

California cheesemakers, too, are competitive in the specialty cheese business. In fact, California currently has more than 60 cows milk cheesemakers producing 160 varieties and styles of cows milk cheeses, most of which are specialty cheeses. This marks a dramatic increase over the 70 types of cheese produced in California in the mid-1990s.

California's specialty cheesemaking industry is experiencing energetic growth that echoes the reputation the state acquired for fine winemaking in the 1970s. This growth has been fueled by the rise of regional cuisine in which California chefs are creating menus emphasizing the finest local foods, including handcrafted local cheeses. It also is due to the increased sophistication of the consumer palate that is prompting specialty food stores to expand their cheese selection.

Farmstead and specialty cheeses are typically sold in the self-service deli. What's so special about the self-service deli? To consumers, the self-service deli means authenticity (natural-looking cheeses that seem genuine to their origins), delectation (cheeses that appeal to the senses either alone or as recipe enhancers), quality (fresh, tasty and even healthful) and sophistication (unique, sometimes imported and definitely more pricey). It is the premium positioning, and of course, the cheeses themselves, that make farmstead and specialty cheeses winners with consumers. These are two business opportunities that cheesemakers should not pass on

Hot Retail Trend

Cheese is one of today's hottest trends and retailers are tapping in with bigger and better cheese selections and more specialized, demand-driven marketing strategies. While cheese in general is popular, the Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board has identified several key trends as among the hottest and those that hold strongest potential to impact sales.

1. Cheese Course Crossover-The trend that has been sweeping the country's top restaurants is now being created by food-savvy consumers at home. Retailers are assisting by displaying a sample cheese course including several types of cheese, along with crackers or breads, wine and fresh or dried fruits and nuts.

2. Convenient Cheese Choices-Today there are more varieties of convenient cheese, including cubes, shreds, slices and other ready-to-use styles in handy, resealable packages.

3. Satisfying Snacks-Snacking is a growing trend in America, and single-serve cheese portions, which are portable and convenient, play right into this trend.

4. Artisanal Cheeses-Handcrafted cheeses are one of the fastest growing cheese types. Consumers seeking quality, flavorful cheeses purchase them.

5. Hispanic-style Cheeses-Hispanics, the fastest growing ethnic group in the United States, are bringing staple cheeses of their native cuisines to mainstream America.

The 2003 Marschall Cheese & Dairy Expo

The 40th annual Marschall Cheese seminar will be held in Visalia, Calif., September 16-18. The seminar brings cheese processors and suppliers together to share information and technology to stimulate growth in the domestic cheese market. This is the fifth year the seminar is in California.

In addition to seminars and workshops designed for educational development, the event also features a trade show and wine and cheese reception showcasing award-winning cheeses. For more information, call 574/264-2557 or visit the Marschall Cheese Seminar Web site at www.rhodiadairy.com.